Brisket

Brisket is tough when cooked fast, so nearly every tradition cooks it low and slow: smoked over hours in Texas, braised with onions in Jewish kitchens, or simmered for pho and pot-au-feu.

It also takes well to curing — corned beef, pastrami and Montreal smoked meat all start as brisket. Whatever the method, rest it before slicing and cut against the grain.

For smoking, hold the pit at about 120°C (250°F) and cook until a probe slides in like it is going into soft butter, usually around 93°C (200°F) inside, which can take ten to fourteen hours. A dark bark forms on the outside as it cooks. Plan the timing generously, because the cook often stalls for a few hours along the way, and a long rest in a cooler keeps the meat hot and juicy.