Plate

Skirt steak

Skirt steak is the diaphragm muscle, a long, thin, ribbon-like cut with extremely loose, open grain and an intensely beefy, almost mineral flavour. It is the classic cut for fajitas.

There are two types. The inside skirt is wider and usually sold in butcher shops, while the outside skirt is thicker, more tender and often prized by restaurants. Either way, a thin layer of surface membrane should be peeled off before cooking, because it turns chewy.

Skirt is fairly affordable but can sell out quickly, so it is worth asking your butcher in advance.

Techniques

Skirt is made for hot and fast cooking. Marinate it for one to four hours in lime juice, garlic, oil and spices, which adds flavour and helps to tenderise the loose fibres.

Then grill it over the hottest fire you can build for only two to three minutes per side, or pan-fry it in a smoking cast-iron skillet. The thin cut does not need as long a rest as thicker steaks; about five minutes is enough. Avoid going past medium, because overcooked skirt turns tough and gummy.

Slicing is essential. The grain is very obvious, so cut the steak into short lengths first, then slice across the grain into thin strips. Those strips go straight into tortillas, or into a quick stir-fry with peppers and onions.

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